Staggering up Kilimanjaro

I booked a 7 day Kilimanjaro climb back in April. 5 and a half days up, one and a half days down.  I figured I'd need the 5 days for acclimatization - Ottawa isn't exactly at a staggering altitude, you know.  Turns out - I was wrong.

I started the climb back on August 7 from Machame Gate (I was taking the Machame route).  It turned out that I was the only trekker - so it was just me, and 6 support crew (1 guide, 1 chef, 4 porters.  That's a lot of people for one person to summit a mountain!)

The first leg took me from Machame Gate to Machame Gate, and from there the next day to Shira Camp, where we get our first taste of "high" altitude (i.e. over 3000 metres).  I had just spent 4 days in Addis Ababa, which sits around 2500 metres, so the first two days were easy.  Which probably explains why I was the first tourist to arrive in Shira Camp.

The day after we hit Shira Camp, we hiked to Barranco, via Lava Tower.  The side trip to Lava Tower is important for acclimatization - you hit over 4600 metres, before descending back down to just under 4000 metres at Barranco.

The next day, our fourth, saw me tackle the Barranco wall (aka the Breakfast Wall, because you do it right after breakfast).  I have to say - I loved this part.  I loved scrambling over the rocks, hugging them as I swung a leg out to land on the next "step".

From Barranco, our goal was Karanga Camp (which in my mind will always be Kangaroo Camp).  Being the speedy trekker than I am, my guide and crew decided that we should push on for Barafu camp - the camp before the summit.

Did I mention that my guide thought I could summit a day early?

So on day 5, at 5 am, I made the push for Uhuru Peak - the highest peak in Africa.  After what seemed an interminable age of zig-zags up the cliff face, we finally (and I mean finally - there were six or seven false summits!) came up to....Stella Point.  The second highest point in Africa.  Another hour of staggering found me at Uhuru Peak.  Where I promptly fell against the sign while my guide too my photo.  5895 metres is nothing to sneeze at.

We quickly descended, and I found a mild-to-moderate case of altitude sickness come on.  No headache, which is normal for me in high altitudes, but nausea.  And back at Barafu, where I gratefully fell upon my sleeping bag for a quick nap, I actually vomited upon waking.  Classy as always.

We pushed on from Barafu that day, to Millennium Camp - a new campsite that was installed in 2000 as a relief measure for all the people wanting to celebrate the New Years on Kilimanjaro, but who couldn't take the altitude.  Needless to say, I was in my sleeping bag early, exhausting after the 7 hour hike to the summit, and 3 hours descent.

The next morning we pushed on down to Mweka Gate - a leisurely 4 and a half hour hike down slippery, rocky paths.  I seriously started to consider that they should award certificates for getting down the path safely, rather than for making the summit!

Oh, and the certificate for making the summit?  I have one of those!

Climbing Kilimanjaro (part 1)

I'm off in less than a hour to climb Kilimanjaro - the highest mountain in Africa.  Sitting at over 5800 metres (5895 metres to be exact), Kilimanjaro towers overs the plains below.

I'm sitting in a hotel in Moshi, a small town near the base of Kilimanjaro, waiting for my trek company, Tro-Peaks to pick me up.  I spent last night re-packing bags - putting everything I would need for Kili (fleece sweaters and pants, sneakers for the campsites, wool socks, mitts and a toque, base layers and gaiters) into a bag that porters will carry for me.  In another, smaller, day-pack, I've got my day-to-day items - camera, bandaids, binoculars and water that I'll carry.  I think I'm ready.

I think I'm ready.

The company told me to take it one day at a time - don't try to climb the peak before you get there.  Just look to what you're doing now, go slowly, stay hydrated, rest and eat.  Those are the keys to reaching the summit. 

I've got four days of hiking upwards before I try to tackle the summit, leaving the last camp at midnight, to see the sunrise over the peak on the fifth day.  After that, it's all downhill, as we push ourselves to be back in Moshi by the seventh day.  (But as they say, downhill is always so much easier.)

I've prepared by hiking in the Adirondacks with a friend, and by walking as much as possible.  Here's hoping it's been enough!

See you in a week, after I've conquered the snows of Kilimanjaro!

Adios Addis

Well, it's been nearly a week since I left Canada.  It took what seemed forever to arrive in Africa - a two-hour delay for my flight to Washington, an overnight layover in Dulles airport (that makes 4 airports that I've slept in) and then a nearly 14 hour flight to Addis, getting in around 8 am on August 2.

Addis takes some adjustment.  It's much like the wild west - loud, unruly, dirty and makeshift.  It seems that slums will pop up wherever there is room for a tin roof.  Exhaust fumes fill the air as cars zip in and out of intersections, following some logic and right-of-way that I'm not, nor do I think I ever will be, privy too.  Driving in Addis is not for the faint of heart.  (Add no seat belts, traffic lights or stop signs to this system, and it should be a recipe for disaster.)

I managed to have just about every experience of Addis that one can have - mobbed by children singing, mobbed by children begging, mobbed by children trying to touch a faranji (foreigner), sitting in a restaurant waiting for dinner when the lights go out, massive rain and hail storms, being driven at a hell-for-leather pace through the crowded streets....they only thing that didn't happen was a mugging or pick-pocketing.  (Although a girl I met up with did have her necklace yanked off her neck.)

So here am I am now in Moshi, having a rest day in preparation of Kilimanjaro tomorrow.  I've met with the trek company, and I've packed my bags.  Here we go!

Cue the nerves in three.....two....one

That's it - day of departure.  Time to blow this popsicle stand of a city, and catch a flight out.  I've got my bags pack and I'm ready to go (note to self: Play "Leaving On A Jet Plane").

I've got two bags of checked luggage (Ethiopian Airlines is not on the one bag only rule, thank goodness) and I'm probably straining the credibility of carry-on (I've got one carry on bag.  I've also got a purse and a camera, which are supposed to be allowed on top of the carry-on bag.)

The current plan is to mail home the remnants of clothing from my Kili climb - the fleeces (minus one fleece top, which will be my sweater for the cooler days and nights on the rest of my trip), the gaiters, the heavier weight socks, and the wicking base-layers.  And since the Kili climb is at the beginning, all the energy bars and snacks (trail mix, energy chews, granola bars) will be mostly gone as well, freeing up even more space.  I'm hoping to be down to one bag by the time I fly to Rwanda.

I'll update when I can.  I hear internet can be spotty at best in some of the places I'm hitting.

A.

Budgeting Your Trip

I thought I would detail out what everything is costing me for my trip to Tanzania/Rwanda, for those of you interested in how I did it (because, no, I'm not rich.)

Here's the breakdown for my trip (all prices in Canadian dollars, unless otherwise noted):

Flight - $1780
Kilimanjaro climb (7 days) - $1400 USD (includes food, lodging)
Safari (5 days, camping) - $900 USD (includes food, lodging)
Flight from Kilimanjaro airport to Kigali, Rwanda - $282
Gorilla trek in Rwanda - $500 USD
Golden moneky trek in Rwanda - $100USD
Flight from Kigali to Dar Es Salaam - $332
Flight from Dar Es Salaam to Zanzibar - $80


1.  Search for flights
I searched and searched and searched (and then continued searching) for a cheap(er) flight to either Dar Es Salaam, Nairobi, or Kilimanjaro airport.  That's the first thing to keeping your budget low - if you can, try a variety of options for the airport you're flying into.  I'm lucky (cursed?) in that I can also search two different airports to leave from - Ottawa (my home city) or Montreal (two hours away, and with a bus that goes from Ottawa to the airport.)

And don't just try different airports - try different dates.  I plugged in various dates (both for the start of my trip, and the end) to see what price came up.  I found that if I left on July 30, I would pay close to $2500 (which is fairly standard for flying to East Africa in the high season).  However, if I left on July 31.....the price was closer to $1700.

The other thing here is to use different websites.  Try airline websites, Travel Cuts, Expedia, Kayak...try them all.  You never know who will have what price.  (Although, I find that Travel Cuts has the best deals.)

2. Watch out for hidden prices
I once booked a really cheap flight from Burssels to Barcelona.  The catch?  I couldn't check any baggage.  That was frine for me - I was only going for a weekend, so I didn't have any baggage to check. 

The point, though, remains.  If it looks like an unbelieveable deal - read the fine print.  It might not be, it might be a really really good deal and you should go for it, but make sure you know what you're getting.  If it's a flight - is there a meal?  An overnight layover?  How many bags can you check? If it's a hotel - are you getting a room in the back with no view?  Shared bathroom?  Is it the price of a triple room, so a third of what you will pay if you're all alone? 

3. Some things are worth the cost
The Gorilla Trek in Rwanda is expensive.  $500 for the permit, a guide, and an armed guard (just in case.)  And you only get about an hour to watch the gorillas, before you have to trek back out.  If you're trying do a budget trip, you may be tempted to skip the experience.  But somethings are worth the cost, if it's a once in a lifetime experience, and you think you may kick yourself for not doing it - then pay the cost and enjoy.

The same thing goes for Kilimanjaro.  I didn't get the "best" price, but I did get one that I could live with.  The company that I chose costs more, but they pay their staff (the porters, the guides, the chefs) a decent wage.  This is something I feel very strongly about - I make a decent wage, why shouldn't others?  I'm willing to pay more to ensure that the people who will be in charge of my safety (and life!) are paid a decent amount to do so.

4.  You won't save everywhere
My flights are expensive, but flying is expensive.  My time is more valuable during this trip, so I chose to fly instead of spend a day or two on buses.  Recognizing that not everything is going to be cheap helps you pay for those expensive things.  I know that my accomodations are budget, so it balances things out for me.

5.  Hostels aren't slums.
Seriously.  And not only that, you don't necessarily have to stay in a dorm room.  Most hostels have private rooms (with or without ensuit bathrooms, so you don't necessarily have to share that either!).  What's the difference if you have a private room with an ensuit between a hotel and a hostel?  Not a lot, really.  It's easier to meet people, and there's a kitchen.  Which, by the way, is also a great way to save - making your own meals is cheaper than eating out.  You can book and review hostels are several sites - I use Hostel World and Hostels.com.  You can also see reviews of sites on Trip Advisor.  Being able to vet the hostel first is a great way to ensure that you're staying in a reputable establishment.

Farwell to Nova Scotia

I went to Nova Scotia last weekend, for three days.  Kind of a quick tour, yes - I really wish I had had a bit more time, maybe two days. 

We spent the first down on the coast.  We drove down to Peggy's Cove in drizzly, overcast weather.  It's still a pretty spot, even in the rain.  We wandered around the rocks and lighthouse, popped into the small tourist shops, and had a snack at the Sou'Wester Restaurant.  In better weather, I think we would have spent a bit more time.  As it is, we only spent a few hours there, before hitting the road again to see the Swissair 111 Memorial.

Swissair flight 111 went down in September of 1998 off the coast of Nova Scotia.  There are two memorials - one located just outside Peggy's Cove, and the other located near Bayswater.

After taking a somber moment at the memorial, we headed on down the 103 to Lununberg.

 

 However, before we visited the town proper, we stopped off at the Lunenburg County Winery, located just north of Lunenburg. They make mostly fruit wines - blueberry, cranberry, elderberry, rhubarb, but offer a few grape wines as well.  The staff is friendly and chatty, and offer tastings of their many wines.  This is definitely an off-the-beaten track site, and when we went there were no tours offered, but perhaps they do in high season.

After the winery, we headed on down to Lunenburg to visit the city, and grab some dinner.  After parking, we took a slow stroll around the city, hitting the waterfront first, where there are horse-drawn carriages waiting to take you on a ride through the picturesque city.  We continued on down Montague street, and found ourselves in front of Ironworks Distillery.

What's one to do after visiting a winergy?  Of course we had to go in, and sample their products (made from Nova Scotia ingrediants.)  We tried an apple vodka, a kiwi liqueur, rum, and an apple brandy.  

After the tasting at the distillery, we thought it would be a good idea to have some food.  We wandered back down to the waterfront, and into "The Grand Banker".  An excellent restaurant, if a little chilly.  A/C not withstanding, the food was fantastic - we ended up sharing brushetta as a starter, then a salad with chicken, dried cranberries, almonds and a raspberry vinagrette, and a steak sandwhich. 

After that it was back to Halifax, to relax in a pub before calling it a night at our hotel, The Four Points by Sheraton.

In Halifax we hit several differnt pubs over the weekend.  I think our favourite was the Economy Shoe Shop, a funky little pub with an excellent patio (great for people watching.)  Inside seems to sprawl, with rooms in many directtions.  Good food, good beer, good atmosphere.  We also went to Maxwell's Plum.  They have a wide selection of beer, but service was a little slow when we went.  Of course, it was also packed - it seems to be a local favourite.  The patio is small, but provides a good place to people watch.  The interior is spaceish, but it feels intimate.  We also went to a small micro-brewery, The Rogues Roost.  It felt a bit more clinical - it didn't have a typical pub, dark interior.  The staff was more than welcoming, however, which made the atmosphere a bit better.

In Halfiax we also played tourists.  We visited the Citadel overlooking downtown Halifax, just in time to see them fire the noon-time gun.  It's not as loud as one would think, but it does reverberate through you.  There isn't as much to do at the Citadel as I would have liked.  There are two museums, which your admission fee at the gate covers, and a small tourist shop.

 After wandering around the Citadel, and listening to the piper and drummer, we headed back down into the city to visit the Alexander Keith's brewery.

The brewery tour is...interesting.  I think they really should warn people before they buy their tickets.  Having done the tour before, we both knew what we were getting into.  It's an historical tour - actors wear period costumes, and talk about the founding and first years of the brewery.  There is no modern component, it's a tour through the history of the brewery, rather than the brewery itself.  At the end of the tour, the actors pour drinks, then sing a few songs, before ushering us back into the 21st century.

After that it was dinner at small Thai restaurant, Gingergrass, at Morris and Berrington streets.  Excellent food - we had a "group dinner for two" that gave us a chicken satay skewer and spring roll as a starter, followed by hot and sour soup.  Our main meal was chicken in a red curry sauce, and a spicy beef satay.  After that, dessert was served - our choice of ice cream (coconut and chocolate) and fried bananas.  The restaurant is really small, and food is slow to arrive, but well worth it.  Little did we know that they closed at 9 pm, at 10 we were just getting to dessert!  But not once did the staff rush us, or make us feel unwelcome.  It's definitely worth a visit!

Hills, Hikes, and Hot Springs

I thought my trek to Machu Picchu deserved it's own post.  It was such an incredible journey, and there's so many things about it that are worth sharing, not just what I did, but what I wish I had brought, and what I wish I had left behind - things that a lot of trekkers and/or hikers might find useful for their own trip.

I arrived in Cusco from Puno, on the shores of Lake Titicaca.  Acclimatization is incredibly important, and if you're flying from Lima (or for that matter, taking the bus), I would highly suggest a few days acclimatization in Cusco prior to doing a trek to Machu Picchu.  Your body will thank you for it.

Common symptoms that people experience are headaches, loss of appetite, and trouble sleeping.  I didn't have headaches, but I did have trouble sleeping at higher altitudes, and during the trek, I didn't have much of an appetite.  Pay attention to what your body is telling you - if the symptoms get worse, talk to your guide, or someone at your hotel prior to leaving.  High altitude sickness can seriously ruin your vacation if you don't take the necessary precautions.

Having said all that - I had an amazing time.  There are several different treks into Machu Picchu, with the most famous being the Inca Trail.  If you have your heart set on doing the traditional trek into Machu Picchu, my biggest piece of advice is this:  book early.  And by book early I mean by months.  I waited until three months before, and all the permits were sold.  July and August and by far the most popular months, so book especially early for those months.

There are other trails available, and at alternate lengths.  There's the Salkantay Trek, which can be done in 5 or 7 days variants, and the Lares Trek which is what I did.  I went with Llama Path - a local company in Cusco founded by a former porter on the Inca Trail.  It's a sustainable tourism company that strives to pay it's workers reasonable wages, and to provide them with housing and health care.  Most of the porters, chefs and guides come from Cusco or from the surrounding countryside, giving them inside knowledge of the terrain.  They provided sleeping bags, tents, blankets and food, as well as a mess tent, chairs, table and all utensils and plates.

The food was incredible - hearty and tasty.  They try to serve food that grows at each different altitude level, so it includes things like yarrow root (tastes like potato), lima bean porridge, and quinua.  We also had spaghetti, eggs, cake, fish, and popcorn.  They not only provide breakfast, lunch, and dinner, but snacks along the trek route, and a snack at the final campsite of the day.

One thing they offered us as a rental was a hiking pole.  I stupidly said I didn't need one.  For the sake of your knees - use a hiking pole.  While I managed ok without it, at the higher altitudes (we reached 4758 metres above sea-level) I deeply wished I had one to lean on.

Another thing that they recommend is a roll of toilet paper.  They provide "toilets" (a hole in the ground, with a toilet seat chair, and tent surrounding it) but no toilet paper.  Definitely bring some.

I brought a small pillow, but found I didn't really need it.  I used my bag as a pillow at night, and I was usually either so exhausted, or I had trouble sleeping, that I never noticed what my head was placed on.

I did notice what was on my head.  High altitudes are cold.  If you're from a colder climate, like I am, it's easy to dismiss people who say "Oh, it's cold up there."  Don't.  It's cold, and you feel it more when you're tired and not getting enough oxygen.  Bring a good toque, and a pair of thin gloves at the very least.

I ended up wearing every layer I brought, at least on the day that we hit Pachacutec Pass.  The lower altitudes are a lot warmer, and a thin pair of pants or shorts, and a t-shirt and more than enough.  For shoes, I wore a pair of running shoes (actual running shoes, and not sneakers).  There was no technical climbing, and the path was well marked.  As I went in their winter, and so their dry season, there was no mud.  We did see snow on several occasions, but it was either off the path, or we could walk around it. 

We started at a small village Pumahuanca, outside of Cusco.  Our first day took us up through the forest, and along the Cancha Cancha river, past a small typical Andean village.  We camped the first night "in the wild" - at 3800 metres above sea level.  It was cold that night, so our guide, Roger, built us a fire for us

The yellow tent was our mess tent.

I was on the trek with three other people - Sonia, Eli and Eduardo from Spain, and Connor from Ireland.

We started incredibly early the next day, and hit Pachacutec Pass at 4758 metres above sea-level.  We spent a few minutes up there, admiring the view, and making a traditional Andean offering to Pacha Mama, the mother spirit.  We headed down, and ended our day in another small village - Quisuarani.  In Quisuarani we slept in the yard of the local school.

The next morning, we toured the school, gave small gifts (stickers, pencils) to the principal.  Afterwards, we hiked the last 8 km to Lares, where we got to enjoy the hot springs.

After the hot springs, and lunch, we caught our bus to Ollantaytambo.  We spent some time in Ollantaytambo before catching a train to Aguas Calientes.  We spent the night at a hotel there (Bliss!  A shower.) before waking up at 4:30 to catch the first bus up the switchback road into Machu Picchu.

You really do want to be on the first bus.  You get to Machu Picchu just as the sun is rising, and you get to watch it burn off the mist from the surrounding mountains.  It's an incredible sight.  Not to mention the fact that there are fewer tourists at that hour than there are later on.  And it doesn't take long for the tourist to show up and clog the site.

My camera broke that final morning, as we waited in line.  I have no photos of Machu Picchu, other than the one above that I took on my cellphone.  My lesson on this, as I plan for my trip to Africa, is to bring two cameras.  I don't ever again want to be caught somewhere as unbelievable, with no way to document it.

I'd like to go back and do the Salkantay Trek.  I enjoyed the Lares Trek, and if you're short on time it's a great idea, at 4 days.  It's also very remote feeling - we met no other tourist until we hit Machu Picchu.  We also got to interact with a few locals, which was fantastic.

Cities and Seascapes

I spent three weeks in Peru in 2009.  I'd always wanted to go to Peru, to visit South America in general, but I'd always put it off, thinking "I really shouldn't go alone, as a female.  I really should go with someone."  And so year after year I didn't go, and year after year I wanted to go.  I'm not sure what exactly made me say enough was enough, but something did and I jumped in, feet first, without checking the water.

I bought my ticket in February, and started planning what I would do.  I was starting off in Lima, and wanted to hit the Nazca Lines, Lake Titicaca, Cuscu and Machu Picchu.  While planning my route out, I decided to  stop off in Arequipa, as it was a good mid-way point between Lima and Puno, on the shores of Lake Titicaca.

In Lima, I got to go parasailing off the Green Coast in Miraflores, a district of Lima, Peru.  You jump in tandem with a "guide" off the cliffs, and float over the Pan-American Highway and Pacific Ocean.  Most rides take about 15 minutes, but as I was having the time of my life, and waving to everyone below, my guide let us glide for longer.  Obviously I couldn't take picutres of myself - a girl, Eline, that I had met in the hostel was taking picutres and waiting for me.

After Lima, I took a 17 hour, overnight, bus ride to Arequipa, a city that sits below El Misti, an extinct volcano that was the site of many Incan human sacrifices.  Buses in Peru, at least the tourist buses, are kind of fantastic.  The seat reclines, and the foot rest unfolds from the seat, providing a reclined "bed".  They play bingo, there's a small tv screen that shows movies (in Spanish), and a toliet.  All in all, not a bad way to spend 17 hours.  I took Cruz Del Sur for the most part.  They say it's a 15 hour bus ride, but buses in Peru do not run on time.  Nor do they leave on time.  If you feel like splurging, you can ride first class, where the seats are wider, have better padding, and are leather.  My preference is still for second-class - first class is on the bottom level of the bus, while second-class is on top, and, I think, provides a better view.

There's lots to do in Arequipa.  It's a great starting point for a hike to (or in) Colca Canyon - typically a 2-day 1-night trip.  You can also climb El Misti, if you are so inclided.  In the city itself, there are surprisingly, quite a few things to do.  I visited the Santa Catalina Monastery, a former convent, and on the UNESCO world heritage list.  It's absolutely massive, and incredibly gorgeous.  I spent half a day wandering around the buildings and rooms.

Besides the Monastery, there is also the Museo Santury, a small museum that offers guided tours.  It showcases the Incan past of the area, and culminates in a viewing of Juanita, a frozen mummy that was an Incan sacrifice 500 years ago.  The whole tour takes about an hour, but is definitely worth it.  At the centre of the city is the Plaza de Armas, ringed by balconied buildings - must of which are restaurants.  They're great places to sit down, have a drink (or a coffee) and watch the city stroll by below.

After Arequipa, I headed down to Puno, on the shores of Lake Titicaca.  I didn't have nearly as much time here as I would have liked.  I arrived in Puno in the early afternoon, and took a stroll to the main plaza.

Walking downhill was easy.  Walking back up the hill to my hostel?  I felt like I hadn't left my couch in years, and was just now venturing into the wide world to get back into shape.  I wheezed, I stopped to rest, I walked sllllloooooooowwwwwwly.   Then repeated this litany every five minutes.

The next morning, I took a tour on Lake Titicaca - visiting the Uros islands, a series of "floating" islands that the Uros people make themselves, by methodically layering new reeds on top of the old, which rot underneath in the water.  The islands are surprisingly sturdy, although you do "sink" a little - think shag carpeting!  You don't sink down into the water, though, and it's easy enough to walk around the islands.  Here we learned how the islands are made, why the tribes started living on these island originally, and a little bit about their way of life.

After the Uros Islands, our boat took us to Isla Tequile, a rocky outcropping in Lake Titicaca that has been inhabited for thousands of years. 

We trekked up the island to the top, to take in the view - white stone and blue blue water.

It took us a little while to reach the top - not because the island is that big, but the altitude does affect how fast you can move (or should move!)  Lake Titicaca sits at about 3800 metres above sea level, and if you're planning on doing the Inca Trail (for that matter, any trek to Machu Picchu) I do recommend a night or two around Lake Titicaca to help acclimatize you.  

After reaching the top of the island, we learned about some of the customes of the inhabitants, and then sat down to a late lunch.    After that it was back down to the boat, and then a sleepy ride back to the city.

After Puno, I head to Cusco, and Machu Picchu, but that deserves it own post.

This is all moving so fast

I'm not sure what happened, but sometime between buying the plane ticket and today, I hit the warp-speed button and things are just moving along at a slightly-too-fast clip.

So, yet again, let me catch you up.  (Do I hear a new catch phrase?  Something to rival "I'm not wearing pants" maybe?)

First thing to happen:  I emailed the Rwanda tourism office to see about a permit to go gorilla tracking.  They issue 56 permits per day (note:  they don't only issue 56 permits a day, as in they work slowly, but for each date there are only 56 permits available.)  So they are incredibly hard to get, and they go incredibly quickly.  You need to book months in advance.  Why?  Because gorillas are endangered, you're in a protected park, and they don't want humans bothering/scaring/stressing the animals.  Each permit is $500US, but is, I have been told, completely worth it.

So I emailed them, and it turns out there are permits available for the 23, 24, and the 25 of August.  Which works out incredibly well with my schedule.  It allows me time to acclimatize in Addis (we're getting to this point), climb Kili and do a safari.

Second thing to happen: Originally I was planning on doing the safari first, then Kili.  I thought, on the safari, I could climb Mount Meru to help with the acclimatization.  It's a three-day climb- 2 up, 1 down.  But with the gorilla trek, it makes more sense to climb Kili, then do the safari, and let my legs rest before doing the gorilla tracking (which could include up to 8 or 9 hours of hiking).  So I won't be able to acclimatize on Mount Meru.  Then, while doing some researching on Ethiopia, and Addis, I found out that the elevation of Addis is 2300-2400 metres above sea level (I have found differing numbers between those two points.)  That will do nicely to help me acclimatize to higher altitudes!

So that's where things are.  I have my gorilla permit booked, and I've emailed two companies about Kili.  I still need to do some research into the safari, pick the company I want to trek with (and hopefully do a safari with, as that usually ensures a slightly better rate.) and research things to do in/around Addis and Kigali.

Kit Up!

So here am I with a plane ticket to Africa, and a plan to climb a mountain.  (Edit #1:And do a safari, which I still need to research, but that's something else entirely.) (Edit #2: And go gorilla tracking in Rwanda)

You don't just walk up a mountain.  Especially not the highest peak in Africa.  Sitting at 5895 metres (for everyone else, that's 19, 341 feet) above sea level, you pass through four different climates on your way to Uhuru peak.  The one thing going for Kili, is that it doesn't require any actual mountain climbing.  It really is just a hike up a mountain.  But you still need some serious gear, and you do need to be in good physical shape.

I went down to my local Mountain Equipement Co-Op store the other night to pick up the beginnings of my kit.  Previously, I got a pair of base-layers (long-sleeve top, and bottoms) and hand warmers at Sport Chek. Base-layers are pretty important - they help to wick away the sweat and keep you dry, and therefore warm.

But you also need boots.  Not real heavy-duty mountaineering boots, but good trail boots that have ankle support, and somewhat water-proof.  I ended up getting a pair of Vasque Breeze hiking boots.  The reviews on the website sound promising, and one woman even used them on Kili a few years ago.  They're large enough to fit two pairs of socks - liners (to wick away the sweat, again) and a pair of thicker thermal ones to keep your feet warm.  The two pairs also help to avoid blisters, not something you want happening halfway up a mountain.

I also picked up a wide-brimed oilskin hat.  I'll need something to protect the back of my head (both on Kili and on the safari)  And sunglasses.  I read in one guide that it is not uncommon for contact lenses to dry out on the windy summit of Kili, and pop right out.  Yeah, that's right.  I'll probably need to bring 2 extra pairs of contacts - one in case something happens, and one in case something happens to the pair that I had in case something happens!

Edit #3:  This trip is moving so quickly, that in the time it took me to compose this post (which, granted, took me a few days) I found out some interesting information regarding Ethiopia, and booked a gorilla tracking expedition in Rwanda.  Yeah, that's right.  I'm going gorilla tracking in Rwanda.  Not to hunt, but to look at.  So expect another two posts in the very near future!

Let me catch you up...

So about a week ago, I found an excellent deal for a flight to Kilimanjaro airport, near Moshi, on the Travel Cuts website. $1619, taxes in.  Now, most flights to Africa cost somewhere over $2000.  To Dar Es Salaam, it's generally $2300-2500, somewhere in that price range.  So this price?  Unheard of.

Of coruse, there's always a catch.  The earlier I could leave would be July 31, and I would have layovers in Washington D.C. (overnight), and Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, before landing in Moshi two days after leaving Ottawa.  (To be fair, part of that two days is crossing so many time zones)  As for leaving...the two dates I tried didn't affect the price.  August 31 or September 4, both were valid.

I ended up going into the travel agency, rather than book online.  I have booked online, and had no problems, but I wanted to see about staying in Addis for a few days.  I've never been to Ethiopia, and I figured if I was going to be there anyway....just do it.  It added about $100 to the total price - an extra $30 to stay in Addis for three days, and then another $70 for dealing with a real human.  For me, it's totally worth it to pay that money to see a new city. 

So here I am, with a ticket to Tanzania, leaving July 31 and returning September 4.  I decided a few days extra would be a good thing - that way I'm not rushing to climb Kili, do a safari, get to Zanzibar...I can take my time to see Moshi, Dar, maybe fly to Kilgala, Rwanda for a few days. 

So I've got a ticket, and it's now a reality.  I'm going to Africa, I'm going to climb Kilimanjaro. 

Ottawa Travels?

So a few weeks ago, I received two tickets to the Ottawa Travel and Vacation show, in the mail.  I have no idea why.  I mean, I went last year, yes, but I didn't sign up for a mailing list or anything.  I entered a contest for a free trip, though, so maybe I got a consolation prize?  A "sorry we're not sending you away, but we will make you totally jealous by giving you free tickets to a fair that will showcase all the fantastic places we aren't sending you" prize.

Doesn't matter.  I decided to take my mom, 'cause she's always fun, and she has strong arms to carry all the brochures I was going to acquire.  (Tip #1: Always plan ahead by bringing someone who will be useful.  Either for carrying things, or having really sharp elbows to jostle people out of your way.)

It was held at Ottawa's new Convention Centre, right downtown.  When we walked in, we decided to start on the left hand side (the side we were closest to) and work our way aisle by aisle.

Aisle one was Europe.  Different countries had booths, of varying size (Seriously Italy, step up your game.  And France, tone it down a little.  That's compensating for something.  Also, tip #2: Don't be fooled by the size of the table, or the crowd in front.  Especially in Ottawa.  The cruise ship tables were overrun in retirees in runners.)

I did pick up a few pamphlets in Europe - namely for Poland, and the Baltic States.  I have yet to visit any of those countries, and I am (not literally) dying to see Latvia and Estonia.  Perhaps I'll be able to swing through the Baltic States plus Poland sometime.

After Europe, we ended up visiting Africa, where I got lots of info on my upcoming trip to Tanzania.  I also got to talk with some wonderful ladies from Kenya, which is fortuitous, as it might make more sense to fly into Nairobi, as it is closer to Mt. Kilimanjaro than Dar Es Salaam, the capital of Tanzania.  We also got to talk with representatives from Côte d'Ivoire, Lesotho, and Uganda.

The next aisle had exhibits from Asia, the Caribbean, and adventure travel (think Arctic Tours).  The countries from the Caribbean tend to be different from your typical resort destinations - Turks and Caicos for example. (Tip #3: This is a great aisle, because Cuba brings out the rum.  By this point, you're ready for something to take the edge off.)

The last two aisles represented North America - one aisle for the US, and the last one for Canada.  Or rather, the last half aisle was Canada.  The other half was allllll Newfoundland.  And a bagpiper provided by Nova Scotia. (Tip #4: Newfoundland is great for freebies - pens, magnets, and salt-water taffy)

I often come into contact with people in the region who are unaware that there is a world outside their home-work corridor.  Alternately, their idea of "travel" is a resort in Cuba or Mexico that they've gone to every year for the past 5 years, or Florida to visit their snow-bird relatives. I was happy to see that the travel bug is still alive and well in the Ottawa area. 

Tan-zany!

I found out, a little over two months ago, that my job would be cut, and my contract not extended past March 31.  (see this post, where I was optimistic of my travel opportunities still.)

I've never been out of work; in fact I've rarely worked less than 2 jobs at the same time; so I wasn't too nervous about making ends meet.  I knew that I would always have a job that would keep a roof over my head, and food in my belly.  What might have to change, were some choices that I've made.

I would have to get a roommate.  Living alone is a luxury that I can afford because of the job I currently have.  With a cut in pay, there would be no way I could afford the rent on my apartment by myself.
I would have to cut back on travel.  I've been fortunate indeed, that I have been able to take two trips a year for the past three years.  This has been, in part, because I get four weeks of vacation annually - three weeks, that I am encouraged to take in the summer, and an extra week between Christmas and New Years.  Another reason would come back to pay.  I get paid enough money that, by cutting back on other things (I don't have a car, I try to use minimal hydro to cut down on my bill, I rarely eat out, etc.) I can save up enough to travel more frequently that some of my other counterparts. 

The other sacrifice I would have to make:  sell a few of my belongings, give notice on my apartment, and move back in with my mother.  That would have made travelling possible, but would seriously have cramped my social life, as my mother lives a good 45 minute drive from.....well, everything.

So there I was, two months ago, faced with the prospect of delaying my trip to Tanzania.  I knew that what I had in my fund would have to be put to a more "adult" use - bills.  I knew that what I had in my bank account would have to be used for the same purpose.  I was still set on going, just perhaps delaying by a year.

In two months, a lot can change.  Well, in two months nothing can change, but I was lucky in that it did.  The department that I had been teaching at, offered me a casual contract for three months.  While this might not sound like the best-case solution (and I will admit, it is not) it is somewhat advantageous.

I had been planning to go to Tanzania in August.  As it stands now, my contract is set to finish at the end of June.  I can move my trip forward by one month with no problems.  I haven't booked anything, and July means that I will catch the end of the migration in the Serengeti.

I had the fortune of receiving two free tickets to Ottawa's travel and vacation show two weeks ago (The whole show will be another blog post - it was that cool).  I took my mother, and one of the first booths that we stumbled on (once we got through the Europe aisle we seemed to have found ourselves in) was.....Tanzania.  (Actually, first was Kenya, then Tanzania.  Followed quickly by Côte d'Ivoire, where we were plied with coffee.  But I digress)

There was a diplomat from the Tanzanian High Commision, who engaged my mother and myself in conversation.  One of his first questions was "When are you planning on visiting my country?"  ("Hello, sign!" I said to myself)  I talked to him about my plans to visit in July or August, and he gave me several brochures, pampletes, tour books, and not only a business card for the company that they recommend (Zara Tours in case you were wondering) but also his business card.  He told me to call if I had any concerns or questions.

From a quick glance at the website, it seems like an ideal company for me to contact.  They arrange group Kili climbs, so I wouldn't have to find a group to join, I would automatically be attached to a pre-arranged group.  As well, they organize safaris (two words: camel safari) or trips to Zanzibar.  Dealing with one company for all three parts of this trip is, in one sense, appealing.  I would only need to deal with one company.  No need to worry about contacting another person/company once I am in Tanzania.  (On the other hand, if I have a bad experience with them for one part, that might colour my experiences in the rest.)

Now that I know I will be working until at least June, I'm going ahead with this trip.  In the next few weeks, I'll be contacting companies and getting pricing.  I'll be tracking down a good deal on airfare, and I'll see if I can't spend a few days on an extended layover in either Dubai, Doha or Addis Ababa, all cities that I might have to fly through to get to Dar Es Salaam.

Can I Have My Living Room Back?

I think the hardest thing about having someone couchsurf is losing your living room for the two or three days that they're here.  It kind of felt like walking into someone's bedroom, really.  Not that I use my living room for much other than watching tv, but it seemed that not having access to it, made me suddenly need it.  Hey wait!  Hoarders is on!  Oh....right, tv's in the living room.  Hey wait!  I need a new ball of yarn!  Oh....right, yarn's in the living room.  Hey wait!  I'll watch a dvd....right, in the living room.

That isn't to say that I don't enjoy having couchsurfers stay with me.  I do.  I get to meet new and interesting people, and I get to show off my city, which I think is under-valued as far as tourist destinations go.  And all three of the couchsurfers that have stayed with me have been fantastic guests - they've been quiet, clean, friendly, and independent.  What more could you ask for in a guest?

I've written about couchsurfing before, but that was before I had the actually experience.  I thought that now that I have had the opportunity to let someone I don't know into my home, I'd write about it.

I've never felt unsafe with a couchsurfer.  I have said "no" to people who have requested the use of my couch - either because I was busy, or because something about their profile made them appear to be not my kind of person.  (Maybe they had too many photos of drinking, maybe they were too young or too old to be compatible, maybe they didn't have any references for me to check how good of a guest they would be.)

But I do check the references, and I do read their profiles.  I want to know a bit about the person I'm about to let into my home.  Likewise, I trust that they've read my profile, andk now what they are getting in return.  For example - I have cats.  That's right there in my profile (not to mention there's a photo of them) and anyone who is severely allergic might not want to stay here.

It is a little imposing, having someone else in your living room.  Perhaps if I had a seperate bed room for them it would be different,  the living room would be a more communal space.  This is possibly the hardest part about hosting, losing my communal space.

My rules haven't changed, after having the actual experience.  My bedroom is off-limits, but the rest of the apartment isn't.  They are welcome to use the kitchen, and the coffee and/or tea is fair game.  So far, all three couch surfers have bought and eaten their own food, although I don't have a problem sharing what's in the fridge or pantry.  I think if the couch surfer were staying longer, I'd adjust that rule; but for two or three nights, it seems silly to say no.  They get a key, so that they can come and go as they please.  Again, it seems silly to say "You can stay here, but you have to leave at 7 in the morning, when I do."  Having read their references, I don't feel like I am taking a big risk in letting them be here alone. 

I'm enjoying being part of the couch surfing experience, and I hope someday to be able to couchsurf myself, to see it from the other side.

When Life Changes, Change Location

Yesterday I heard the news that every employee dreads:  your position has been made redundant.  As of March 31, 2012, you will be out of a job.

I could panic, yes.  I could worry about things like a roof over my head, paying bills, buying food.  I could dread having to reduce the life style that I lead - cutting back on entertainment, clothing, and other non-essentials.  Instead, I choose to look at this as an opportunity.

I'm going to travel.  I have no job to worry about getting back to, and if I pack up all my belongings, and store them in my mother's basement, cancel my cable and internet, I will have enough money to spend a month, or two, back-packing somewhere in this wide world.

The question is....where.

Australia?
India?
Veitnam?
Argentina?
Chile?

Ideas?

Monteverde's Green Mountains

My first stop in Costa Rica was Monteverde, a wonderful area of coffee plantations, zip line adventure companies, ecological preserves, rainforest and the worst roads you've ever had the mis/fortune to ride on.  The slash there in case you're a fan of bumping over potholes that could swallow most small cars.

Getting to Monteverde from Liberia is a bit of an exercise in patience and, as we found out, miming.  You see, to take a bus to Monteverde you need to:

• In Liberia, catch a bus to Canas
• In Canas, catch a difference bus to Tilaran.
• In Tilaran, catch a third bus to Monteverde.  That runs once a day, at 2:45 (according to the schedule we were given.)

That's pretty much an entire day of being on and off buses.  So when we were approached by a man offering a ride to Tilaran for $60, we...realized he didn't speak English, and we didn't speak Spanish.  Much miming and broken sentences in both languages later, we offered $50, and off we went.  We arrived in Tilaran around 9:30, and were again approached by a different man, who offered us a ride to Monteverde for $70.  Again, we found ourselves awkwardly debating the price, and finally we all agreed on (and understood) $60.  So we piled in his car, started off.....and he asked if he could bring his wife.  Turns out, I think (remember, I don't speak Spanish) he and his wife are from Monteverde and they were going to use the day to visit their family.

Did we get taken?  Most likely.  We could probably have talked both men down more, but honestly....we were tired, and we had the money.

Arriving in Monteverde, we found our hostel, and booked a coffee plantation tour at El Trapiche  - where they grow not only coffee, but also bananas, plantains, sugar cane and pineapples. 

We toured through the bananas and plantains, and then headed into the sugar cane, before getting to the good stuff.  The coffee.  Seeing it in all its stages - how it's grown, dried, the bean separated from the kernel, and then roasted, was incredibly interesting. 

The next day, we headed out to Extremo Park to do a little zip lining.  There are multiple zip line companies in Monteverde, and I think most of them are fairly similar.  Extremo offered a 1km long "superman" zip line - where you fly like superman from one mountain top to another.  It's a fairly bare bones operation, in that it's only zip lines (with one 55m repel, and a tarzan swing) and no canopy tour or suspension bridges, which some of the other companies do offer.  While it is bare bones, it doesn't scimp on safety.

Our final day in Monteverde, we hit the Trainforest (great for kids!), the Serpentarium, and the Ranario butterfly garden and frog pond.  (Although, it's not really a pond, more of a small frog zoo.)  That evening, we did a night walk in one of the ecological parks near the town.  While we didn't get to see many  mammals (other than a coati), we did get to view several bird species, and a tarantula.

Monteverde is a beautiful area in Costa Rica.  As it is in the clouds, there is occasionally a fine mist in the air.  Blue blue skies above you, a warm mist around, and suddenly.....one of the most vibrate rainbows you've ever seen.  Who could pass up a chance to see that?!

Playa Grande Played Me (or How I Learned to Surf)

I grew up in a small town in a large province very far away from any ocean.  Two days driving in one direction would get me to the Atlantic.  Four days driving in the opposite would get me to the Pacific.  However, I did grow up surrounded by water.  Rivers, lakes, puddles, ponds, pools....swimming, canoeing or just playing around.  I love water, and every time I hit an ocean I'm reminded again of just how much.

While in Costa Rica, I decided that I needed to take a surfing lesson.  I had wanted to in Hawaii, but didn't find the time.  There would be no excuses this time.  I contacted Point Break Surf and booked a lesson for January 2.

There were two other women 9sisters from LA) taking lessons with me.  We started with a how-to demonstration on land - how to paddle, how to stand, how to stay safe.  Afterwards we hiked our boards down the beach to an empty stretch where we wouldn't hit the real surfers with our beginner bumblings.

The first time on the board in the water, we just body-surfed the board to the beach.  The second time, we rode it on our knees.  On the third try, we were to try to stand up.  Standing up proved not to be the problem for me - staying standing is where I needed to put in a little practice.  The next try, though, I managed to ride the bunny-wave (borrowing some ski terminology here) to the shore.

We were just riding the white water - small waves that wouldn't prove too much for our meager abilities.  Hey, everyone has to start somewhere right?  Gotta learn to stand before you can ride.

I did not too bad - every other wave I fell off, true, but I rode as many as I floundered.  It's a learning curve - learning when to start standing, learning how fast (or slow) to do the litany of steps towards standing (ok, so....on my knees like a table, check.  One foot between hands, check.  Start standing and turn body, check.  Eyes on the beach!  check.  Knees bent, check.) But I (somehow, someway) managed to stand on a few waves.

A quick break for water that wasn't salty, and a new application of sunscreen, and we were back in the water.  I was given a different board - one that was a little more stable than the others.  I got to ride two or three waves when suddenly, I pearled.  (That is to stay, I dived nicely off the front of the board, as if I were diving for perals).  The board flew out behind me, and I hit the water, with a sharp pain hitting my knee.  I looked down, and it turns out I had gashed it pretty good.

The new board had a mount in it for a camera, and that mount hit my knee, cutting it pretty good.  I was lucky - my instructor, Matt, was cool and calm.  He grabbed his med kit, bandaged up my knee, and took me straight to his doctor.  She took a look at my leg, and set to fixing me up.

6 stitches later, Matt drove me back to my hotel, and made sure that I was ok and didn't need anything.  I'm a little bummed that I didn't get to surf more.  I had a fantastic time, and Matt was a great instructor.  It's definitely something that I'll be doing again, regardless of the accident. 

Once my leg heals up, I'm getting "Playa Grande, Costa Rica" tattooed around the scar.  It's an awesome souvenir!